Tuesday, 28 July 2015


  Interesting article
CANADA needs to step up
Source: Dr. Karen Becker 
www. mercolapets.com

Two years ago, the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) canine vaccination task force updated their vaccination guidelines. The task force changed the previous annual protocol for core vaccines to an every 3-year protocol, with the exception of 1-year rabies shots. (In many states you can choose either a 1-year or 3-year rabies vaccine for your pet. If you choose a 1-year shot, or if your state doesn't offer a 3-year vaccine, the annual protocol is required by law.)

The task force also acknowledged in the updated guidelines that for non-rabies core vaccines, immunity lasts at least 5 years for distemper and parvovirus, and at least 7 years for adenovirus. This means that even the updated 3-year protocol is overkill.

Veterinarians who are vaccine minimalists, and certainly I am one of them, viewed this protocol change as a small step in the right direction. We feel re-vaccinating pets against diseases they are already immune to poses    significant and unnecessary health risks

Why Are 60 Percent of Vets Still Doing Annual Re-Vaccinations?

Sadly, despite the new guidelines that are now two years old, members of the traditional veterinary community have been slow to adopt the new recommended protocol.

According to Mark Kimsey, a DVM who works for Boehringer Ingelheim Vetmedica Inc., a veterinary pharmaceutical company, "Basically, what we're seeing is there's a gradual trend toward three-year protocols."

Dr. Richard Ford, a DVM who is on both the AAHA canine vaccination task force and the American Association of Feline Practitioners (AAFP) feline vaccination advisory panel, agrees with Kimsey. "It's a slow change," says Ford. "Most practices still recommend annual vaccinations. All the vet schools are teaching triennial vaccinations."

Ford believes, based on feedback from vaccine manufacturer sales reps, that 60 percent of veterinary practices are still re-vaccinating on an annual rather than every 3-year basis. "Some acknowledged the reality and changed their protocols, while others, fearing loss of a major source of revenue, argued against anything other than the time-honored paradigm: annual boosters," said Ford.

It appears there's no shortage of vets out there willing to openly admit they don't want to lose the income from unnecessary vaccinations and new, safer protocols be damned.

Hopefully you're not taking your own pet to a veterinarian with a similarly misguided, dangerous practice philosophy.

 Unwilling to Change? Addicted to Easy Money? Or a Bit of Both?

According to Veterinary Practice News, Dr. Gary D. Norsworthy, owner of Alamo Feline Health Center in San Antonio and a practicing vet for 40 years, is among the 60 percent who aren't budging from an annual vaccination schedule for their patients.

His rationale is that he has a number of clients who will only bring their cats in for wellness exams if they believe vaccines are needed. Norsworthy says he's determined not to lose the opportunity to do annual checkups on cats in his practice. So he uses only the 1-year rabies vaccine, and tells his clients he must see their cats yearly.

Norsworthy believes "Internet chatter" scares cat owners into believing vaccines are dangerous. He notes that his practice vaccinated 25 percent fewer cats in 2012 compared to 2007. He says he sees only one case of feline vaccine-associated sarcoma for every 65,000 vaccines he injects.

Clearly, Dr. Norsworthy, like many conventional vets, makes no connection between other feline health problems and repeated unnecessary annual vaccinations. Like Norsworthy, many DVMs don't know or don't choose to know about the dozens of other health crises that can arise as the result of vaccines, and especially as the result of repeated re-vaccinations.

Rather than figure out how to give clients logical, legitimate reasons to bring their pets in for regular wellness exams, the majority of vets apparently prefer to continue the risky business of re-vaccinating their patients year in and year out.

Could it be this approach to pet care is why veterinary visits have steadily declined in recent years?

Is it really so difficult to explain to pet owners the benefits of bringing their dog or cat in for at least one wellness visit a year?

From my experience, it's not difficult at all. I see the majority of the patients in my practice for wellness visits twice a year, and it is extremely rare that I administer any vaccine to an adult animal, excluding the mandatory 3-year rabies.

Also according to Dr. Ford, there are some DVMs who would like to follow the new guidelines, but are concerned that vaccine product labels include text that reads "annual booster recommended."

This seems a very strange argument in favor of continuing annual vaccinations, doesn't it?

If canine and feline vaccination advisory panels have established new recommended guidelines, why would a vet choose instead to take the advice of the vaccine manufacturer's product label?

Thursday, 23 July 2015


SafePet Ottawa & PetValu Fundraiser
JULY 25th and 26th
10:00 am to 2:00 am

    Check out SafePet Ottawa's Facebook page
                         GREENBANK MALL 

Tuesday, 14 July 2015



Heat stroke is far more serious and is life threatening. If unable to cool your dog down in time and your dog is showing signs of heat stroke call your dog’s veterinarian. Soak your dog with cool water and rush to the nearest emergency clinic.

If your dog’s temperature is too high your dog’s organs will begin to shut down.




Rapid heart rate


Tacky gums

Hot to your touch

High Temperature 104 degree / or higher 40 degree Celsius



Organ damage

 Your dog's vet will cool your dog and need to monitor your dog for blood clotting


Monday, 13 July 2015



Unfortunately for our dogs they are unable to sweat. The only way dogs cool themselves is by panting. Panting helps to reduce your dog’s body temperature. It’s up to you to make sure your dog doesn’t over heat. Heat exhaustion is the early stages of heat stroke.

By taking immediate steps to cool your dogs down you will help to avoid what could be the more fatal extension - Heat stroke.  Always have cool water available. Make sure if your dog is getting too hot to get your dog into a shady or cooler place. Stop any vigorous activity. Apply cold wet towels over your dog. Let the dog air dry. The above actions will help to cool your dog’s body down.


Dogs that are higher risk for heat exhaustion are older dogs or dogs that are overweight. Breeds that are at higher risk for over heating are double coated or breeds that have snub- noses like Pugs, Boston Terriers, Boxers.



Excessive panting

A lot of thick white saliva

Warm to the touch

Possible diarrhea and vomiting

Skin in the ears is red


Sunday, 12 July 2015



I have spent hours removing quills from a dog’s mouth, lips, tongue and body.           

If you take your dog for long walks in the country, or go camping, or have a cottage property, as an educated dog owner you should always pack a travel first aid kit. A pair of piers and Gravol as a mild sedation will be useful if your dog tangles with a porcupine.


If your dog is quilled it is an unfortunate fact that the most common place to be quilled is the face. Generally your dog will grab the porcupine with his mouth and the loose quills of the porcupine will lodge and penetrate into your dog’s skin and mouth. Porcupines don’t shoot their quills but these loosely attached barbs let go from their hair shafts if touched.

TREATMENT   What to do? Treatment is a little harsh: you need to pull the quills out! And you need to pull them out quickly. You will need pliers to overcome the barbs.

You need to keep your dog quiet. Gravol may help to calm your dog. However, Gravol doesn’t work on every dog. Hopefully you have help available, for someone will need to hold the dog still while you remove the quills. Keeping the dog calm can be a difficult job since quills are sharp and painful and all your dog wants is to get them out. Movement will drive the quills deeper into your dog’s skin. It is crucial to stop your dog from rolling or pawing, pushing the quills deeper into your dog’s flesh. .First have your dog stand: feel your dog for any quills on one side of his body, legs, neck. Remove those while the dog is still standing. Grab each quill as close to the dog’s skin as possible with the piers. Needle nose are the best. Pull with constant pressure and pulling it straight until the quill is pulled out. Most certainly there will be blood, but the quill must come out. This is a painful process. It’s a good idea to apply a topical antiseptic where the quills were pulled out to avoid infection. I haven’t myself used vinegar but I have heard if you pour vinegar on the quills it helps loosen them up. If you do try the vinegar keep vinegar away from you dog’s eyes.

Once you feel sure you have removed all the quills from that side lie your dog down on the side you just de-quilled and start working on his face. Start with his tongue. If your dog is starting to get fed up and is in pain from the quills he may bite you. If you remove the quills from the tongue and inside his mouth first then you can muzzle and work on removing the quills from the rest of the face and body. Quills embed rapidly so immediate action is needed to give your dog relief from the throbbing. Keep feeling for quills all over your dog and keep removing them. Because you can’t see any more doesn’t mean they are not there! Some dogs will learn to stay clear after the first encounter with a porcupine: other dogs get carried away and are unable to control themselves. We, as their owners, have the responsibility to take whatever action is necessary to help our dogs avoid porcupines. If your dog has quills in his eyes or deep in the throat you should get him to the closest Veterinary Clinic. Your dog’s vet will tranquilize him, making it far easier to remove the quills. Your veterinarian will also prescribe a round of antibiotics after all the quills have been removed.

Friday, 10 July 2015


TRAINING TIPS from Marcia Scott

I have had several calls from clients who are curious about how to properly introduce their dogs to other dogs. With all the summer gatherings, people would like to bring their doggies with them on various family events. Along with family gatherings, camping is also a popular activity where people like to bring their dogs.
Here are a few tips to help the situation run smoother:
  1. It is better to find a neutral location where one of the dogs does not feel threatened by another dog in their own territory.
  2. Place the new dog on a long leash/off leash and let them sniff around the area to familiarize themselves with the new surroundings without any other dogs.
  3. Once they have had a chance to sniff around then bring in the other dog to have them greet each other in a positive way. It is better to have both dogs off leash yet if one of the dogs are unsure of other dogs then I would place them on leash only to have better access to pull them apart if required.
  4. As the dogs approach one another, drop the leashes and let them sniff each other for 1-2 seconds and tell them "Good doggies & Let's Go" and take them for a walk together.
  5. They can sniff each other on the way. Their walk helps them get rid of their stress and excess energy.
  6. If you are really unsure on how each of the dogs will do when first greeting, then introduce them to each other on a walk. One person will walk their dog and the second person will approach gently from behind where they can sniff the new dog's behind to help them get to know each other better while continuing to walk. Then the second person can continue to walk faster so that the first dog has a chance to check out their new possible doggie friend.
  7. Lots of dogs are completely happy to not interact with other dogs and that is completely fine too.
If you have any questions on these training tips, please send me an email at Marcia@happyhound.ca or give me a call at 613-253-5535.

Wednesday, 8 July 2015



Tuesday, 7 July 2015


                                         YOUR DOG       

                            TAKES A BITE OUT OF IT!

Monday, 6 July 2015

Identify Your Dog's Play Style To Find Compatible Playmates Whole dog Journal

Canine Play Styles

Your best option for finding compatible playmates for your dog is to identify your dog’s play style and select dogs of similar size, energy level, and play style preference.

Size matters. No doubt there are dogs of significant size disparity who can play well together, but as a general rule, it’s wise to keep the difference in the realm of 25 pounds or less. A playful dog can easily injure a little dog, even without intent to do harm, simply by running over or jumping on the smaller dog. Of even greater concern is a phenomenon known as predatory drift in which something from a dog’s evolutionary past triggers the larger dog's brain to perceive the smaller dog as a prey object - a bunny or squirrel - instead of the canine pal he's played happily with for months or years. Often the trigger is the smaller dog running, yelping, or squealing. The bigger dog gives chase, and tragedy ensues.

For more ideas and advice on the best ways to play with your dog and the benefits to both you and your dog, purchase Pat Miller's book, Play With Your Dog from Whole Dog Journal.
Play With Your Dog is not only a unique guide to the games you and your dog will enjoy, but it's also a manual that will help you understand how, and how NOT, to play by illustrating the games that will help your dog:

- Develop better socialization skills
- Establish a positive relationship with you and other dogs
- Know the rules for safe-play with children

 For more ideas and advice on the best ways to play with your dog and the benefits to both you and your dog, purchase Pat Miller's book, Play With Your Dog from Whole Dog Journal.

Sunday, 5 July 2015

Water Intoxication

Water Intoxication  JoAnna Lou

Dogs that swim or play in the water, sprinklers or hoses, may be at risk of ingesting too much water. Many dogs bite at the water or swallow large amounts while retrieving toys from the water.
Owner must be wary and watchful
 because drinking too much water can cause electrolyte levels to drop, thinning blood plasma leading to swelling of the brain and other organs.  
We all love watching our dog’s play in the water having a great time.
 It’s always our responsibility to keep our dogs safe.
 Some dogs won’t stop so it’s up to us to give the dog rests and end playtime
if too much water is being ingested.
If we see any of the following signs: Lack of coordination lethargy, nausea, vomiting, dilated pupils, glazed eyes, light coloured gums, excessive drooling.  
Advanced symptoms: difficulty breathing, collapsing, loss of consciousness, and seizures..

Saturday, 4 July 2015

White dogs and the sun

White dogs, particularly those with pink pigment on their noses
and eye rims, are prone to sunburn. The risk for sunburn increases
for shorthaired dogs or for dogs that have been shaved.
When people are at risk of burning, they readily slather on the sunscreen.
However, even people who realize that dogs are at risk of sunburn fail
to consider sunscreen for the family dog.

Read more: How Often Should Sunscreen Be Put on a White Dog? |