Friday, 31 January 2014

Earthdog test a dog sport I didn't know about

Earthdog trials are not new, but they are to me mostly because I never owned a Terrier or a dachshund so when I was searching dog sports Earthdog trials popped up.

Basically the dog runs in a tunnel at the end of the tunnel is a rat or mice. How active and how high prey your dog's activities are trying to get the rat. The rats in these trials are safely inside a cage at the end of the tunnel. In Canada I think we can't use rats, but we use Gerbils instead.

Below is a CKC rules and a youtube video.


Thursday, 30 January 2014


     Winter Garage Sale at Trend Arlington - Saturday Feb 1st 11-2

                            50 Bellman Dr, Ottawa

Wednesday, 29 January 2014


                    OVER 40% of dogs are over weight or obese by the age of Ten years

Tuesday, 28 January 2014

Our Relationship with dogs By Dr. Bruce Fogle


Never ever leave a young child unsupervised with a dog.

Learn the danger signs

1.      Signs of fear in a dog- flatten ears, averted gaze, cowering, tucked tail- may be followed by defence bite.

2.      Signs of overt aggression in a dog- a direct stare, alert ears, raised hair on back, raised tail, bared teeth, barking, or growling,-may be followed by an aggressive bite.

3.      Even if your own dog loves being petted, remember there are other dogs that are fearful and will bite if approached.

4.      Be calm and careful around dogs; do not shriek, scream, wave hands around, cry, or suddenly run.

5.      Never ever touch any unknown dog without first asking the owner whether the dog can be petted.

6.      Never enter a yard in which there is a dog, especially a dog tethered by chain or rope.

7.      Leave dogs alone when they are eating, sleeping, or playing with a favourite toy.

8.      Never take such as toys, bones, or chews from dogs.

9.      Never sneak up on a dog, try to scare it, or force it where it doesn’t want to go.

10.   Never bend over dogs, which can be interpreted as threatening.

11.   Always eat where dogs cannot try to grab food.

12.   Children should never bury their faces in a dog’s hair, even if the dog is gentle of individuals.

13.   Children should never play roughhouse games with a dog, even if adults do.

14.   Children, must not tease a dog, because this can trigger both fearful and dominate dogs to bite




Monday, 27 January 2014


This is a new design turf of grass that turns your dog's meal into a game.
The desired amount of dog food is scattered across the green, and after this it is up to your dog to push the food out between the many blades of grass.

Green prolongs eating time significantly. This results in a happier and healthier dog. LESS CHANCE OF CHOKING!

One size and design made from hard plastic can be used out side and is dishwasher safe.

Sunday, 26 January 2014

Other Genetic problems with short snouted breeds (Skin fold dermatitis)

                                                 SKIN FOLD DERMATITIS


Lots of extra skin that is wrinkled is the result of a short nose and the skin that covers the snout has not been proportionally reduced. So then skin fold dermatitis  can occurs when the wrinkles rub together or hair rubs within the folds causing irritation. Added irritation is when the skin secretions and no air  is able to circulate between the folds.  Unfortunately discomfort and skin infections often occur in these dogs. Daily care is needed to keep folds clean!!!! GENETIC this problem could be bred out of brachycephalic syndrome breeds by breeding snouts a little longer your dog would also breath easier.



Saturday, 25 January 2014


Unfortunately many owner of breeds with pushed in faces such as Pugs, Bulldogs, Boxers, Boston Terriers, do not always recognize when their dog is having a respiratory problem, they see it as normal for their breed. Being able to examine and know when your dog is in distress is crucial for your dog's health. These breeds many times exhibit breathing problems after exercise. They have a harder time cooling themselves in summer's heat. Sleeping with dogs that have Brachycephalic syndrome  is noisy with a lot of snoring and nasal noises this is because their respiratory system is compromised.
Researching your breed and any genetic disorders will only be prudent and may save your dog's life.

Friday, 24 January 2014

If your thinking of getting a puppy!

If you are thinking of getting a puppy I have come a cross this document called the puppy contract please read and pass it on to any one you know thinking of getting a puppy!

Thursday, 23 January 2014


As I watch my dog's chew on their bones with such enthusiasm and wish I could hold onto my dreams with a fraction of their determination.

Wednesday, 22 January 2014


                       SNOW BALLS IN YOUR DOGS COAT

There are a lot products out there to help lessen the amount of snowballs building up on your dog's coat and feet.
First keep your dogs feet trimmed, trimmed feet has less hair for the snowballs to stick too.
Slicker, coats that cover legs and much of the belly also help. Many brands of dog boots are also available to purchase.  If you want to go without protective gear, mushers wax repels snow from sticking to your dogs feet. Even baby oil will help keep snowballs from occurring between the toes.
I haven't yet tried this but some people spray their dogs feet and legs with Pam creating a slick non stick surface.
What ever your course of action removing snowballs can be stressful and painful. So if you use a blow dryer please keep it on low heat to melt the snowballs. The quickest way is a warm bath and towel dry well.

Monday, 20 January 2014

Recombinant vaccines

Glossary Term: Recombinant Vaccine

Definition: Pronunciation Key: Ree-com-bin-ant vack-sine
Vaccination of our pets has caused much discussion over the last few years. Why? Because as researchers learn more and pets live longer, it has been found that while vaccines definitely protect animals from disease, they may also cause disease in susceptible individuals. Both the frequency and types of vaccines used are now something that one should discuss with your veterinarian, as the recommendations can vary greatly from pet to pet. Recombinant vaccines are created by utilizing bacteria or yeast to produce large quantities of a single viral or bacterial protein. This protein is then purified and injected into the patient. The patient's immune system then makes antibodies to the disease agent's protein, protecting the patient from natural disease. This process is known as vaccination. In contrast, traditional vaccines are made by killing or weakening the actual disease organism (virus, bacteria, fungus, etc.) and injecting it into the patient to stimulate the patient's immune system to produce antibodies against the disease. Then, in theory, if the patient came in natural contact with the disease organism, the body's immune system would mount a response and prevent illness in the patient. Advantages of the recombinant vaccine technology are that there is virtually no chance of the host becoming ill from the agent, since it is just a single protein, not the organism itself.

Recombinant vaccine is an interest to me because one of my dog has reacted to vaccines. So splitting up his vaccines over weeks and monitoring him for reactions after he is vaccinated is required.

Sunday, 19 January 2014


Over weight dogs!
Remember you have total control on how much food and exercise your dog gets.

Extra weight cause stress on joints aggravating Arthritis, it causes Heart and Lung problems,

and affects all of your dog’s organs.  

Thursday, 16 January 2014


The two links below will fill you in on a brutal animal abuse story.
Very sick individual, Steven Helfer needs to pay for the pain and suffering he has caused Breezy and other defenceless animals.

DIARRHEA Watery Woes

Remember that if your dog ate something that made him sick Diarrhea actually is a good thing, it is a defence your dogs body uses to expel bad stuff more quickly

 Step 1. Don't feed your dog anything for 24 hours this gives the intestines time to recover.
 Step 2. Feed small amounts of bland diet every 4 hour. Cooked white rice and extra lean hamburger meat strained well. After a few days start adding your dogs regular diet back in.
 Step 3. Stop feeding any dairy products, dairy is harder for your dog to digest.
 Step 4. Keep your dog hydrated, diarrhea can deplete body fluids.
 Step 5. Walking you dog may stimulate the nervous system that keeps the guts working properly.
 Step 6. Add fiber this will help draw water out of the stool. It also helps regulates bowel movements.
 Step 7. If diarrhea continues call your dogs veterinarian.  If your dog has other symptoms like fever, vomiting,, your dog is lethargic, along with the diarrhea contact the vet before 24 hours.

Wednesday, 15 January 2014

No one can fully understand love unless he's owned by a dog.
-Gene Hill

New Years

Since it just a few weeks past New Years I was reflecting on New Years how it always gives us hope for something better. A genuine enthusiasm to be optimistic. If I am celebrating New Year's with friends or watching the Ball drop in Times Square on TV my dogs are by my side, enjoying the excitement and reminding me just how much a part of my life they are.

Tuesday, 14 January 2014

Playing Hide and Seek

You can play Hide and Seek this game with just you and your dog, or with you and another person and your dog.

Your can play this game anywhere in or outside
Call your dog to you
Have your dog sit and stay
Walk away then call your dog to you and praise or treat when your dog comes
Continue the game by having your dog stay and start going further and further or around a corner.
Call your dog to you if your dog come to find you lavish treats or praise
Make it fun.

You, your dog, and another person
Have your dog sit beside you
Have the other person have a treat and walk away calling the dog to them
Release the dog to go find the other person.
When the dog finds the other person have the person praise and treat.
Repeat Repeat Repeat
Eventually your dog will understand the find command, and your game of Hide and Seek or Find
it is born,

Monday, 13 January 2014



I do find it funny that so many dog owners think its cruel to crate their dogs. Dogs if properly introduced to a crate usually think of their crates as a safe place. As young dogs learning to housetrain, generally dogs don't like to soil in their beds or sleeping areas. So crating makes housetraining easier. Come home take the dog out from the crate to outside. Dogs are creatures of habit and it won't take long for the dog to realize outside is the where they relieve themselves.

So many dogs suffer from separation anxiety. A crate keeps the dog safe and also your stuff from being chewed up. Stops dogs from having an obstruction from eating or chewing things they shouldn't.
Dogs sleep curled up most of the day as along as the crate is big enough for the dog to stand and turn around that's all you need.
Long stints in a crate, your dog should have water and toys should be available.

I crate my 12 year old Border Collie he loves his crate and runs their for security like a den.
His door is always left open.

Our other younger Border Collie can't be trusted so is crated while we are out or at bedtime.
she too loves her bed.

Crates are a training tool and a secure safe place for your dog to hang out that's his space.

Sunday, 12 January 2014


Wolves eat until the entire deer is done-not just because they don't have Saran Wrap in the wild, but because they don't know when there's going to be another deer again. What they eat today may have to hold them for a long time. That's where the expression "wolfing down" food comes from, and you'll see it in your own dogs behavior much of the time.

"Cesar's Way" by Cesar Milan

Saturday, 11 January 2014

How to stop a dog fight safely ASPCA


Breaking Up a Fight
How to Stop a Scuffle between Two Dogs
Sometimes, despite your best efforts to monitor their interactions, dogs get into fights. Luckily, most fights last less than a few seconds, and you can often interrupt them by simply shouting at the dogs. If the fight continues, however, you should be prepared to physically separate them.
Breaking up a dogfight can be dangerous. To reduce the likelihood of injury to all parties, follow the guidelines below.
General Advice
  • Have a plan. Decide in advance exactly what you’ll do if a fight happens. If you live with multiple dogs and other people, make sure everyone living in your home knows about the plan.
  • Don’t panic. Remember that most dogfights are noisy but harmless. If you stay calm, you’ll be able to separate two fighting dogs more safely and efficiently.
  • DO NOT grab your dog by the collar if she starts to fight with another dog. It seems like the natural thing to do, but it’s a bad idea. Your dog might whip around to bite you. This kind of bite, called redirected aggression, is like a reflex. The dog simply reacts to the feeling of being grabbed and bites without thinking. Many pet parents get bitten this way—even when their dogs haven’t shown any signs of aggression in the past. Another reason to avoid grabbing your dog’s collar is that it puts your hands way too close to the action! You might be on the receiving end of a bite that was intended for your dog.
Plan A: Startle the Dogs or Use a Barrier
Before you physically separate two fighting dogs, try these methods:
  • A sudden, loud sound will often interrupt a fight. Clap, yell and stomp your feet. If you have two metal bowls, bang them together near the dogs’ heads. You can also purchase a small air horn and keep that handy. Put it in your back pocket before taking your dog somewhere to play with other dogs. If you have multiple dogs who get into scuffles, keep your air horn in an easily accessible place. If a startling noise works to stop a fight, the noise is effective almost immediately. If your noisemaking doesn’t stop the fight within about three seconds, try another method.
  • If there’s a hose or water bowl handy, you can try spraying the dogs with water or dumping the bowl of water on their heads.
  • Use a citronella spray, like SprayShield™ or Direct Stop®. Aim for the fighting dogs’ noses. If you walk your dog in an area where you may encounter loose dogs, it’s wise to carry citronella spray with you. If an aggressive dog approaches, spraying the deterrent in his direction may stop him in his tracks and prevent a fight. If he attacks, spraying the deterrent on or near his nose may break up the fight.
  • Try putting something between the fighting dogs. A large, flat, opaque object, like a piece of plywood, is ideal because it both separates the dogs and blocks their view of each other. If such an object isn’t available, you can make do with a baby gate, a trash can or folded lawn chair. Closing a door between the dogs can also break up a fight. Throwing a large blanket over both dogs is another option. The covered dogs may stop fighting if they can no longer see each other.
Plan B: Physically Separate the Dogs
If other methods don’t work or aren’t possible, it’s time for Plan B. If you’re wearing pants and boots or shoes, use your lower body instead of your hands to break up the fight. If they’re covered, your legs and your feet are much more protected than your hands, and your legs are the strongest part of your body.
If you feel that it’s necessary to grab the dogs, use this method:
1. You and a helper or the other dog’s pet parent should approach the dogs together. Try to separate them at the same time.
2. Take hold of your dog’s back legs at the very top, just under her hips, right where her legs connect to her body. (Avoid grabbing her lower legs. If grab a dog’s legs at the knees, her ankles or her paws, you can cause serious injury.)
3. Like you’d lift a wheelbarrow, lift your dog’s back end so that her back legs come off of the ground. Then move backwards, away from the other dog. As soon as you’re a few steps away, do a 180-degree turn, spinning your dog around so that she’s facing the opposite direction and can no longer see other dog.
The Aftermath
After the fight stops, immediately separate the dogs. Don’t give them another chance to fight. It’s important to make sure that they can’t see each other. If necessary, take one or both dogs into another room or area. If the dogs are friends and you’ve interrupted a minor squabble, keep them apart until they calm down.

Friday, 10 January 2014

6 WAYS to Exercise your dog in the winter by Cesar Milan

Reprinted from Cesar’s Way magazine

Yes, it’s cold outside, and the number of daylight hours is short, but your dog does not hibernate, and it’s important that your dog get daily exercise. Vital for a dog’s physical and mental wellness, exercise is also a crucial part of the relationship between Pack Leader—you—and dog. On those days when bad weather makes walks impractical, you can still give your pup the exercise she needs with these six ideas for great winter exercise.

1. Play a game with your dog.

Hide-and-seek is a wonderful way to get your dog up and moving and mentally engaged. You can hide a treat or her favorite toy, but it’s better to make her come find you. Start by throwing a treat to get her to go away from you, and then hide in another part of the house. This game can really tire your pup out as she rushes around searching, and it’s good for reinforcing the “come” command.

2. Challenge your dog’s nose.

Dogs have incredibly powerful scenting abilities, so exercises that require your pal to use her nose are especially stimulating. Make her work for her dinner by creating an obstacle course she has to get through to find her food. Hide her meal in a box, or, better yet, put it in a Kong Wobbler or a Buster Ball.

3. Dog treadmills and indoor walking.

There are treadmills on the market designed specifically for dogs. But if you cannot afford one of these, use a human treadmill—but take the right precautions. Spend a few days familiarizing your dog with how it works. Use a slow speed and stand in front of the treadmill with a treat. Over three or four days, slowly increase the speed and the amount of time your pup spends on the treadmill. Work up to the same amount of time you normally spend on walks.

4. Sign your dog up for a class.

Sign up for an indoor agility or swimming class. Flyball provides good exercise, and a class comes with the added benefits of allowing your dog to socialize and boosting her mental agility by learning something new. Also, many cities have facilities with doggie swimming pools.

5. Practice targeting.

Being indoors gives you a great opportunity to practice targeting with your dog. Teach her to touch her nose to the back of your hand on command; this will make her focus on a target. It’s a great exercise because it gives you an activity you can do together. And once your pup has learned how to do this, you can use it whenever you want her to stop what she’s doing and focus. For example, if you’re out walking and she becomes excited when she sees another dog, you can use targeting to redirect her attention. Plus, your dog can’t bark when she’s touching her nose to your hand!

6. Don’t be a wimp…get outdoors!

Most bigger dogs love snow, and they can get a great workout by plowing through it. Spend 30 to 40 minutes in the snow, and your dog will get a workout that leaves her exhausted—and her muscles toned. When you come in, be sure to wash your dog’s paws to clean off any salt.

Thursday, 9 January 2014

Training your dog

Where do we start!

There are many different types of training methods out there. Depending on the dog you will need to decide whether your dog responds better to correction or positive training. In my experience there is a place for both type of trainings. Leadership consistency and clear direction is the best. Many dogs train extremely well with direction then follow with play.  Spending time with your dog and being clear on what you expect of your dog makes both your lives and commitment to each other strong.
The more time you spend with your dog the better the bond the easier you training sessions will be.
Remember to touch your dog a lot it is a vital training tool and its a reward your dog craves.
Training takes time commitment and lots of effort
but you will own a great dog in the end! 
Remember if you don't make the rules  your dogs will!

Wednesday, 8 January 2014

Certified Service Dogs for Autism

Certified Service Dogs for Autism

Since 1996, National Service Dogs (NSD) has been training Labrador and Golden Retrievers to assist children and families living with autism. NSD is proud to be the first school in the world to provide this service to families with children who have autism.

Over the last 16 years, NSD has placed over 250 Certified Service Dogs across Canada and has helped various training schools around the world develop their own autism programs.

These dogs help increase safety levels, improve socialization, and suppresses
behaviour outburst giving the child help to redirect to a more positive behaviour

Tuesday, 7 January 2014

Resource Guarding?

“You shouldn’t bother the dog’s food while he’s eating,” is a traditional piece of dog advice that is based on the assumption that dogs protect or guard those things (“resources”) that they value and don’t want to lose.  And food certainly fits that description.  But is that advice valid?

What Is Resource Guarding?

Resource guarding refers to a dog displaying behavior (growling, snapping, etc.) intended to convince other dogs or humans to stay away from a particular treasure or “resource.”  The resource can be food, treats, toys, a place (a bed or favorite chair), or occasionally a person.  Basically, a resource is anything that is considered by the dog to be of high value.

Resource guarding is normal dog behavior.  Dogs have evolved as opportunistic feeders, and it’s natural for them to protect what they consider to be “theirs” from potential takers.  The displays of growling and related body language are the dog’s way of saying, “Back off! This is mine, and I don’t intend to give it up.” In most cases, the dogs are simply communicating, and one dog will back down.  If, however, the dogs fight over resources or if a more timid dog feels stressed, you should separate the dogs around desired objects, like food, bones, and toys. The easiest thing to do is to put them in different rooms, so they can each enjoy their prize. Also, remove potentially guardable items when the dogs are together.

That said, resource guarding can be a serious problem if a dog threatens to bite his human family when they try to take something away.  Dogs must be willing to give up things they would rather keep, like that plastic bag or turkey bone.  Resource guarding is a major cause of aggression toward humans, particularly toward children.  Children, especially small children, carry around toys and food where the dog can reach them. Children are less likely to understand the importance of respecting the dog’s possessions and are likely to grab for them. Finally, their height means that bites to children often occur on the face or upper body, resulting in more serious injuries.

What Does Resource Guarding Look Like?

Resource guarding can occur over a variety of objects.  Some dogs only guard what they are actually holding (a toy or bone, for example) or when they’re eating.  Other dogs guard toys or treats in their general vicinity, even when they don’t seem all that interested in them.  A few dogs guard space, like the couch or bed. Dogs may guard resources from other dogs, humans, or both.  Resource guarding can also vary in severity, from the dog that will simply move the object away to the dog that snarls, growls, snaps, or bites if approached.  The guarding behavior can sometimes escalate through these levels as a particular dog perceives an increasing threat.  Lower level behaviors (e.g., snarling or growling) are warnings.  Don’t punish your dog for these warnings, or he may stop giving warnings altogether and move directly to a more aggressive behavior, like biting.

What Can I Do?

Whether you have a puppy, a new dog that doesn’t yet resource guard, or an occasional, but not dangerous, resource guarder, you want your dog to learn not to guard his food and to willingly give up an item.  Practice these exercises frequently before you really need them.

  • Approach your dog’s food bowl while he is eating and, without bending down, drop a delicious treat (something like a piece of chicken or beef) into his bowl.  This will teach him that humans approaching his food are not a threat, but rather something good.  You can also hand-feed your dog to set up a strong association with people as providers of good things. This is especially helpful when you first bring a dog into your home.
  • Choose a word or phrase like “drop it” or “give” to use as a release cue when you want your dog to give you whatever he has.  Get an empty paper towel roll, a toy, or other item that will interest your dog, without being high value.  You will also need some really yummy treats (diced cheese, hot dogs, whatever your dog loves). While holding onto one end, offer your dog the cardboard roll or other item, moving it around to make it more exciting until he takes it.  Continue to hold onto it, so he can’t grab it and run.  Now, stick a  treat right under your dog’s nose. Your dog will likely spit out the item. When he does that, give him the treat.
  • After this is working consistently, add your verbal cue, “drop it” or “give” (in a happy voice), as he sniffs the treat.  After your dog has finished the treat, entice him with the original item again. Once you are confident that the item interests him, add the cue “take it”. Then, use your cue of “drop it” and repeat the trade.  Your dog is learning that when he lets go, he not only gets a treat, he gets back the item he originally gave up.  Note: When not practicing, move the item out of sight, so that your dog doesn’t keep picking it up, in order to get a treat.

When working on these exchanges, make sure you maintain a non-threatening position like sitting or kneeling and angled a little to the side.  Leaning over or walking directly toward a dog is often a trigger for resource guarding.  If your dog becomes still and stiff or raises a lip at any time, don’t continue.

Remember, the key is to trade for an item of greater value.  And the dog gets to decide what’s valuable. Generally, though, that item will be an especially tasty (and if necessary, smelly) treat. Using food also has the advantage of allowing you to practice this exercise a number of times in quick succession.

If there is a specific item that your dog guards (a chew toy or favorite tennis ball), that item is “off limits” until your dog learns to willingly share his treasures.  Put the item out of sight. When your dog learns to “drop” items of lesser value, then…and only then…will he be allowed to first practice with his “special” item, and then have access to it on a regular basis. The same principle applies to places. If your dog guards the couch, use a baby gate or tether, so that your dog doesn’t have access to the couch. If it’s your bed, your dog should not be allowed in the bedroom.

If your dog seems to guard you when another person approaches, he is probably guarding himself, not you. Your dog doesn’t feel safe, but is comfortable enough in your presence to stand up to the perceived threat. Small dogs, in particular, tend to act out when their person is holding them. Don’t carry your small dog around everywhere; let him explore and gain some confidence. If your dog is reactive around people, stay at a distance where your dog isn’t reacting and give your dog one tasty treat after another (the size of a pea) until the person is gone. This will help your dog develop a positive association with people.

What If My Dog is Already a Serious Resource Guarder?!!!

If your dog aggressively guards resources, especially if he has made you feel unsafe or if you have children in the home, you should consult a positive reinforcement trainer or behaviorist from our referral list to help with that behavior.  While resource guarding is not uncommon, it can become a serious issue that is potentially dangerous for both dogs and people.  Many bites, especially to small children, occur as a result of resource guarding. Keep your dog and your family safe by looking for professional help to deal with this issue.

Key Points to Remember

  • Resource guarding is a natural behavior for dogs, but it must be managed so that it doesn’t become an aggressive behavior.
  • Prevent inappropriate behaviors from developing by rewarding desirable ones.  Take the opportunity to create positive associations between people and resources.
  • Good management will keep your dog from getting things he shouldn’t.  Close doors, put the trash in the closet, and keep the laundry basket out of reach.
  • Resist chasing your dog.  The chase is a reward and teaches your dog that theft brings attention…and play.  Get in the habit of trading for something better.
  • When teaching your dog to “drop it” or “give”, start with boring items and gradually work up to more valuable ones.
  • Make sure that your “trade” is more valuable that what you are asking your dog to give up.  Your dog gets to define “valuable.”
  • Never hit, scare, or threaten your dog in order to get something from him, even if he snarls or growls.  He is telling you to “back off,” and that’s a warning message you want him to be able to express.  Dogs that are punished for growling go straight to biting.
  • If you have a multi-dog household and one or more dogs are resource guarders, feed them or give them bones or toys in separate rooms.

The Book For You

(If you order your books, DVD’s, or other items from the Amazon or Dogwise icons on our website,, Your Dog’s Friend will receive a percentage of whatever you buy as a donation.)

Still Need Help?

Our trainers would be glad to help you. Our monthly Adopters Workshop is a Q&A session open to anyone, even if you’ve had your dog for a long time. Come pick the brain of one of our trainers and go home with a few new tricks up your sleeveYour Dog’s Friend is a 501-c3 non-profit organization that educates and supports dog parents. We offer behavior and training advice; sponsor FREE workshops on a variety of topics; run positive dog training, behavior-related, and sports classes; refer dog parents to trainers, dog walkers, and other professionals; and send an e-newsletter with articles, resources, and announcements.

This material is not intended to be a substitute for professional help when dealing with dogs with intense or potentially dangerous behavior issues.  Consider consulting a positive reinforcement trainer or animal behaviorist for situations that you feel are dangerous or that you don’t feel equipped to handle. A list of recommended trainers and behaviorists can be found on our website,

Sunday, 5 January 2014


Using dogs to smell and detect Cancers seems odd to me until, the dogs at the rescue where I

worked, continually sniffed my right knee. I thought this was more to do with other dogs sniffing
and leaving drool or their scent on my leg. My right knee was always sore and inflamed it turned out
that the cartilage in my knee was nonexistent and I had a large Bakers cyst behind my knee.
The dogs would alway be so interested in my knee,
so I did some research and also got my knee checked out. Cancer detecting canines no longer seems
far- fetched to me.

Check out this website for lots of fascinating stories and facts.


Some interesting read with lots of information on, one of the many ways our canine companions help us.

check out this link  SEIZURE DOGS